Laphroaig Feis Day!! Lang may yer lum reek
This feis day was bittersweet. While we spent a spirited evening with distillery manager Barry MacAffer, it also marked the end of his career with Laphroaig (as far as we know). On Sunday night, Barry put together an absolutely beautiful evening celebrating the 30th Anniversary of the Friends of Laphroaig. For Laphroaig Day, we took part in a Laphroaig Blends experience. My review of the day, that tastings, and Laphroaig follow.
As the Doctor’s favourite whisky prior to visiting Islay was Laphroaig, we wanted to make this an extra special visit so we opted to join in on one of the more expensive experiences. Fingers crossed S didn’t object!
When we showed up (just a bit early) we were shown into the visitor centre and invited to visit the museum and/or take a walk near the water. We visited the museum before briefly and in prior talks about Laphroaig, I noted some parts of significance- the fact that Bessie Williamson ran the distillery… becoming the FIRST female distiller and distillery owner in the 20th century!!! Who run the world?? When you find independent bottles of Laphroaig it will be called Williamson after Bessie. How cool?
PLUS, a really cool fact is that Laphroaig management convinced the US during prohibition that Laphroaig was actually medicinal and so it was legal to buy/drink during prohibition. I love that wily spirit!!
Returning from the museum, we went into the bar area where we snacked on oat cakes, Laphroaig cheddar, and Laphroaig fruit cake. The workers there gave us a glass of Laphroaig Cairdeas (2023) while we settled in and waited for everyone to arrive. Finally everyone was there! It was a rather friendly, informal tasting where we tasted several Cairdeas bottlings, but in between chatting about the bottles, we chatted to one another, and this relaxed approach was really enjoyable!! We did taste the Bourbon Cask 2009, the 2015 15 year old, the 2019 Triple Wood, and finally a super special 1981 distilled 27 year old!! These were all exceptional drams and I really got to the heart of what Laphroaig is about. While, yes, it is boggy smoke, you experience traces of camphor, mint, or menthol making subtle or more obvious appearances in the drams. I love that this was a nerdy nugget of knowledge that I took away from this experience!
In the meanwhile, I was able to chat with Barry and found out that he is leaving to go work for a whisky distillery in South Korea that want to produce an Islay-esque style of whisky. How interesting! There is a big demand for Japanese whisky and even some cult following of Taiwanese whisky distilleries. So I can really envision how this was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity that one has to say yes to. It will be a matter of time before we hear about this amazing distillery and the whisky produced! The branding expert in me can’t wait to see this come to fruition!
Toward the end of this part of the experience, we toasted to Barry “Lang my yer lum reek.” This Scottish Gaelic expression, so we were told (as I’m no expert here) is meant to mean Long may your Chimney Smoke. Stoking a fire in Scotland means you will stay warm and cosy even in the colder weather. For your home to stay warm, you have to have enough embers over the periods of the day- when you wake in the morning, when you cook, and when you go to bed. The hearth is also the heart of the home, so it’s alive, well it’s alive. Essentially, this means that you are well off…. or rather we wish you well. It was a very moving speech. We had a moment of appreciation for the 27 year old dram, for Barry and the way that he has maintained the integrity that is Laphroaig throughout his time, and the knowledge that we are connected through Cairdeas, which means friendship. All tasting notes are at the end of this post.
At the close of this, we all grabbed a bit of peat from shed area (we were told to grab a very small one). Some of us did not grab a small one (S!) as we were to light the cairn. In 2015, Laphroaig built a cairn (a dome-shaped with dry, piled stones) for the brand’s 200th anniversary celebrations.
Cairn dedicationAt the time, Prince Charles unveiled the cairn and while it was intended to be lit, there might have been some controversies with sustainability and so THIS (me and the other visitors) would witness the first ever lighting of the cairn. As we walked over the cairn, there was a sense of peace as we made our way though the fields, home to many claimed plots of land. Last year, we claimed our plot of land with a flag and recalled this connection to our history with Laphroaig. There was some beautiful Gaelic singing as peat was used to light the fire at the cairn.
We were invited to plop in our wee chunks of peat, though the size of fireplace prevented many (especially S) from putting theirs in.
As we celebrate the friendships made and maintained at Laphroaig we finally opened the Cairdeas 2024 10 year old and cheers’ed to Barry, Laphroaig, our old and new friends, and the time we get to experience. Oh, did I mention that with this more expensive experience, we all took away a bottle of the 2024 Cairdeas? Now, I’ll definitely do this again!! It was a wonderful dram, one of the few we’d buy without needing to taste it first. And, it’s not a bad price at £85. Barry has done a great job of keeping the prices reasonable so that more people might be introduced to Laphroaig.
In high spirits (figuratively and literally) we walked back to Port Ellen, making out the new distillery in the works, and looking forward to Laphroaig’s Day (Tuesday).
Poor Laphroaig Day! It was the wettest day of the whole week and it made it hard to enjoy. We all stood in the rain wearing our ponchos, waiting to be let into the distillery area.
At least with rain it meant that the midges were absent. Everyone crowded into the bar, the shed with the peat (this is also where they demoed barrel making). The craft areas were avoided, as these were out in the open. We went to get our free dram (with a token)- this was the feis bottling or another of your choosing. Then, we relocated to the bar where we collected our rent.
Are you a friend of Laphroaig? If you drink whisky, you should be a friend! This entitles you to specific freebies and even rent collection (that is extra free drams of the 10 year old cask strength). I love collecting rent! I recall last year that you didn’t even need your token as they were walking in the open area pouring various drams freely (and even giving drivers drams). Rather than collecting your dram in a glass, you could opt for a driver’s dram and they will give you what you want within a mini.
Soon, we were off to our tour meeting point where Calum Fraser (Master Blender) and Sarah led our tasting. Calum also ran the tasting last year (deconstructing Lore).
Funnily enough, I sat in the same seat as I did last year as did a lady we run into annually (she across from me).
This year’s tasting had 3 parts- a Deconstruction of this year’s Feis bottling (tasting ex-bourbon, a Quarter Cask, and a PX Sherry finish), each representing different steps in the Cairdeas journey. Our next two drams represented an Encore, both unpeated. Calum said that this was exceptionally rare and you would only be able to taste unpeated Laphroaig at the distillery during experiences like this. Finally, as a finale, we tasted a 32 year old stolen from a cask in the warehouse. This was such a fun experience! All of us, including Bunny, really enjoyed this deconstruction. While Bunny is not a fan of very peated whisky, I think she took to the unpeated drams. Tasting notes at the end of the post.
With the weather just awful, I made a quick haul over to the bar to sample the Laphroaig Elements Edition 2 before we left. I’m very sad as they don’t have the Edition 1. The Doctor has edition 1 but hasn’t opened it. On another note, this weekend, I spent an hour walking all over Edinburgh to find Edition 1 to try (I know where I can buy it) but I really want to know what it tastes like. I’m still at a loss, though I have one more place that could be promising. I really liked the Edition 2 because it spent an extra long time fermenting (which generally makes it funkier) and while it did taste really lovely, sweet but peppery, I heard that Edition 1 is funkier. I need to know! Who has tried this? Anyone know where to try this dram in Edinburgh?
Anyway, I ramble…. We left Laphroaig Day and went to Port Ellen for our distillery experiences there. I wish I would have stayed longer at Laphroaig and waited out the rain. Anyhow, I will give my honest thoughts on Port Ellen (mixed as they are) in an upcoming post.
On the Sunday before our slotted flight to leave the island, we spent our last few hours at Laphroaig. While S purchased the Innis & Gunn Laphroaig beer, I spent money on 2 drams that caught my eye in the visitor’s centre (£25 for the 23 year old and £15 for the 13- both single casks). Not a bad price for each dram, but they were the most expensive bottles there so I wanted to share my thoughts on those as well. They are also included in the tasting notes.
Before moving onto tasting notes, I’m keen to hear your thoughts on the new Cairdeas and the experiences at Laphroaig. What did you think of the dram?? What experiences should people try and why?
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52.3% Aged in White Port and Madeira casks
On the nose, black peppercorns and a mossiness came to the forefront. While peat was present, of course, there was a subtle hint of white flowers. White chocolate and plump raisins came next. Finally, I was able to discern a bit of oatcakes and orange zest.
When tasting the dram, it reminded initially of a dry dirty vodka martini as it had a bit of olive brine. This followed into green peppercorn, earth, coal peat. The boggy nature of Laphroaig powered through on the finish, and left me with savoury miso notes.
While this doesn’t have an age statement, we were told that it came from a blend of different aged casks (or so that’s what I jotted down). As such, you can really see what younger Laphroaig is like- bold! This compares to a teenage Laphroaig where this boldness starts to taper off.ext goes here
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Bourbon Cask, 57.5%
The nose was quite surprising because it was a bourbon cask and I initially smelled quite a bit of fruit cake initially. But then, typical cask characteristics emerged such as brioche. Digging deeper into the dram I picked up on moss, saltiness, menthol, and a bit of floral character. Finally, I nosed a bit of custard creaminess.
At first on the palate, I felt a powerful burst of smoke (pow), which ebbed into bourbon-esque sweetness: icing sugar, peaches, pears. This turned into a sugar baby candy snack. On second taste, I did get eucalyptus but then the gummy candies again, most like the cherry Fangtastics.
In my tasting notebook, I wrote down “Peat Never Dies” and I assume that this was something that S referenced while tasting it.ption text goes here
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100% 1st fill Bourbon, 43%
I’m not the biggest fan of non-cask strength as you don’t get the same nuances on the nose, but complexity did come through! At first I detected some moss and propane grill smoke. This became icing sugar, menthol, grass, pear drops, and eventually oak cakes.
On the palate, I first got notes of sweet menthol which mellowed into a sweet cream, almost reminiscent of cream soda. Finally, it finished into citrus fruits, like lemon zest and sweet tangerine.
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Non Age Statement 59.5%
This was the dram that inspired this year’s Cairdeas but this one has no age statement to (NAS) and used oloroso casks. It’s interesting to compare this one and this year’s Cairdeas.
When nosing the dram, I immediately picked up on spices and dark fruit, similar to Christmas cakes. Next came a woodiness like from new furniture. There was a light BBQ smell that trailed into cinnamon and nutmeg. Finally, I found molasses (treacle).
As first sip, there were BBQ kippers (a fish), deep non-drunk red fruits (berries), curry powder, and a chili spice.
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From 5 oloroso casks (56.6%)
This was a very special dram that Barry selected for the tasting. They only had 2 bottles left in the vaults, so I felt very honoured to try this dram.
Initial notes of stewed plums, very light smoke, balsamic drizzle, and nutmeg. Overall, the nose was very rich but simpler.
The palate was still quite complex, though, leading with smoke (cigar ash), with tastes and textures of chocolate, and then figs. On second taste, there was also a walnut element about it, followed by a finish of burnt marshmallows. As a child, I would burn my marshmallows around the campfire because it produced this char on the outside but would make the inside of the marshmallow a bit sweeter and creamier. This reminded me of those campfire marshmallow nights.
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PX, 52.4% (tasted this one multiple times)
80% of this batch started its life in Bourbon barrels for 4.5 years before being transferred to Quarter Casks to spend another 4.5 years. 20% stayed in Bourbon barrels (were not transferred to Quarter Casks). Then, it would spend 1 year in seasoned PX sherry casks. These seasoned casks would ‘see’ PX for 7 months, while the Triple Wood version saw Oloroso for 11 months. This was what I wrote down during our Cairdeas deconstruction. Also, typical fermentation time is 75 hours.
On the nose, I immediately was taken to a bakery staring at a black forest gateau- I could detect the dark chocolate ganache as well as the dark cherries. There was also a bit of green banana hiding in the background. Going back to the dram, it had cinnamon, honey, and a mild peat. The second time I nosed this dram, I picked up on more nuance like moss, chili peppers, capers (there was a saline pickliness) raisins, nectarine, and candied bacon.
When tasting this dram the first time, I identified chipotle peppers in adobo, walnuts, and spices like cloves and nutmeg. This finished into a treacle (molasses) and dark chocolate. The second time I tasted this dram, I wrote down the same tasting notes, except it had more bacon (like a pastry from France- bacon ficelle), and curry powder. -
Deconstruction- Single Ex-bourbon American Oak Cask filled in 2014 (58.7%)
This was likely a Jim Beam cask as this is the source for many of their casks.
On the nose, I picked up on typical Bourbon notes of vanilla, green apples, lemon, brioche or glazed donuts, and this turned into a light peat smoke.
On the palate, there was a punch of mossy smokiness that relented into a cream soda. Next came salty notes of burnt caramel and liquorice/anise. Before turning into a nice caramel finish, there was a bit of bitterness.
Deconstruction Quarter Cask (19 year old)
This dram was originally filled in 2005 and moved to Quarter Casks in 2017. As a 19 year old dram drawn from the cask, this is 19 years old and 42.7% – which is cask strength!
The nose immediately gave hints of maraschino cherries. Really, it took me back to childhood when I was a fan of Shirley Temples, a cream soda drink with cherry juice. There was a rich woodiness to this as well, which led into dried tropical fruits like guava and papaya.
On the palate, it transported me to childhood yet again though I was eating a Strawberry Starburst. This led to salty notes, which transitioned into cream soda and birthday cake. The finish was much more simple- oat caks.
It seemed this dram lost some of its essence. There was not really peat or moss or anise.
Deconstruction PX Sherry Finish Dram
Filled in 2014 (10 years old), and drawn from the cask at 56%
Most likely, as with the Jim Beam association, they obtained this cask from Miguel Martin)
The nose shouted cinnamon, nutmeg, anise, and vanilla spices. This led into Christmas cake and drunk raisins, treacle (molasses), demerara sugar and finally pecan pie.
On tasting the dram, it was much like the nose- pecan pie at first, quite a bit of nuttiness poking through with dark chocolate and finishing in a medicinal (menthol) peat.
Encore Unpeated 2013 (Ardinistal) 1st fill Bourbon cask 57%
The nose straight off brought on typical bourbon cask scents of vanilla and cream soda. But, spending a bit more time with the dram brought on pickle notes, almost like capers, where there was a floral brininess. Very interesting.
A taste of the dram revealed sweet notes of toffee and honey, with the characteristic mint that I’ve come to associate with Laphroaig followed by apple pie. Even though this is not peated, the finish has almost a charcoal bitterness
Encore Unpeated 2013 Sherry Butt, spending 9 months in PX casks, 57.5%
It was interesting to compare and contrast these two Encore drams as they were identical except for the cask finish.
The nose revealed a bit of curry powder, brine, chipotle peppers, something akin to the candy Smarties (sugary, cotton candy elements with fake fruit). Along with these notes, more dedicated nosing brought on aromas of green jalapeno freshness and green bananas.
On the palate, this was a sugary sweet BBQ sauce with cinnamon, cardamom. This was a very sweet dram (didn’t have the bitter notes.
While the bourbon cask was more interesting overall, I think that the finish on this one was spicier, and much easier to drink.
Finale: 32 year old cask draw; filled in Bourbon casks in 1992 and moved to Quarter Casks in 2003
The nose brought on tropical fruits like kiwi and guava that led to a general sweetness, like Double Bubble Gum. A deeper nosing of the dram led to notes of green bananas and chili powder.
The palate provided very subtle levels of peat, so it made me think we sat next to a cigar rather than experience cigar ash. This also led to flavours of almonds, honey, menthol (typical), and tarragon.
The finish offered a lingering bit of menthol that drifted into wood and brazil nuts. The texture and taste finally ended in dark chocolate. A very nice dram!!